Farmhouse Table DIY with Removable Legs

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 

Farmhouse tables are my absolute favorite piece of furniture and will always have a special meaning to me! Farmhouse tables are the reason I taught myself how to build furniture, they opened up the DIY world to me that I love, and they also made me realize I could have a blog too. I started my first creative small business by opening up a vintage rental company for weddings and farmhouse tables were the main rental item. Brandon and I built 20, eight foot, beautiful, cedar farmhouse tables. Here is a photo of one them with some other rentals I offered:

Kimberly Florence Photography and styling by Alyssa of Ginger & Blooms

Kimberly Florence Photography and styling by Alyssa of Ginger & Blooms

I no longer run the vintage rental business and I sold the farmhouse tables to another rental company, but my love of furniture building has continued and I am excited to finally share the farmhouse table build plans that we used to build 20+ farmhouse tables. What I love about these plans is that the table legs are easily removable! So, if you move a lot (or want to build them for your business too) and need them to be easily transportable, these plans work wonderfully! 

The plans I am providing are for a 6 ft. long x 40 in. wide farmhouse table using 2x thick wood, but they can be modified for any size table and with different wood thickness too. The farmhouse table in the photos below is the table Brandon and I built for my brother, sister in law, and nephew. I've also included a photo at the very end of our very FIRST farmhouse table that we still use today in our kitchen!

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 

Materials:

  • (3) 2x10 @ 8ft (for table top)
  • (2) 2x8 @ 8ft (for table top)
  • (4) 2x4 @ 8ft (for side aprons, end aprons & middle supports)
  • (2) 4x4 @ 8ft (Not pressure treated, for legs)
  • 1" Wood Screws
  • 2 1/2" Kreg screws
  • (8) 5/16-18 x 2.5" hanger bolts
  • Surface Mount Corner Brackets for Table Aprons
  • 5/16" flat washers and hex nuts
  • Wood Glue

1. Gather all materials and supplies. Make your table top, legs, and side apron cuts

It's important to pick the straightest boards you can find as this will help when you are assembling your table. Make the cuts below. Note, for the table top we are starting with an extra inch on each side which will be trimmed off later.

  • Table top - (3) 2x10 @ 74"
  • Table top -(2) 2x8 @ 74"
  • Side Aprons - (2) 2x4 @ 57"
  • Legs - (4) 4x4 @ 29"

2. Trim side edges off table top boards

To get a snug fit for your table top boards, use a circular saw and trim 1/4" off the side edges of all the boards, except for the two outside edges of the table top. We used a straight edge guide we made to do this, but you can use a table saw guide or buy a straight edge cutting guide as well. In the 2nd photo below you can see the difference straight edges on the right side make compared to the rounded edges on the left side. Note, typically for 1x thick wood the boards are already square/straight on the edges and you don't need this step.

3. Lay out table top and and mark pocket hole locations

Lay out your table top board in the correct order (make sure two rounded outside edges are on the ends) and mark with a marker the order # on the board ends. Then, flip the boards over and mark where you are going to drill pocket holes. It's best to space them 8" - 12" apart and alternate on each board. Also, make sure to stay a few inches in from the sides. I wish I had a better photo of the kreg hole markings, but I've added arrows on the photo below to give you an idea of the placement.

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 
 
Farmhouse-table-DIY-with-removable-legs
 

4. Drill pocket holes and assemble table top

Use your Kreg Jig and drill the pocket holes as marked on your table top boards. Then, using wood glue and kreg screws, attach each board together one at a time (making sure each board is assembled in the correct order). 48" long clamps definitely help with this part.

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 

5. Trim the ends of the table top

Use a circular saw and trim 1" off of both table top ends in order to get perfectly straight ends. The photo below is a bad pic but it gives you an idea of what this step looks like!

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 

6. Drill pocket holes on side aprons and attach to table top

Use your Kreg Jig and drill three pocket holes spread out on both side aprons. On the bottom of the table top, mark the halfway point (36") along the side, then mark 3 inches above that point. This is where the center point of your side apron should be attached. Next, mark the center point of your side apron (28.5"). Line up the center point of your side apron with the center point you marked along the side of your table top. Attach with kreg screws and wood glue (make sure your side apron is being attached perfectly parallel and 3" in from the edge). Repeat on the other side.

7. Prepare the table legs

On one of the the square edges of each table leg, use the chamfer bit and route a chamfer at least 3 inches long.

8. Prepare corner brackets

Line up your legs and corner brackets to the side aprons as shown in the photo below. Then, measure the distance from the bracket back to the table end (should be about 6.5"). Repeat on the other side and make sure the distance from the bracket back to the table end is the same so both of your corner brackets line up at the same distance from the table end. Attach brackets to table top using 1" wood screws drilled into the the two, bottom, corner bracket holes. Repeat on the opposite side.

9. Prepare and attach end aprons

Line your table legs back up against the side aprons and corner brackets. Then measure the inside distance from one table leg to the other to get the exact end apron measurement. Repeat on the opposite table end. Next, cut your 2x4 end aprons to size, drill three pocket holes on them, and then attach to your table top with wood glue and kreg screws. Note, as shown in the 2nd photo below, it helps to line up your end aprons and mark where you'd like your three pocket holes to go so you avoid drilling them into a crack or other pocket hole on the table top.

10. Drill screws into remaining corner bracket holes

Add screws to the remaining corner bracket holes to secure the corner brackets to the side aprons and end aprons.

 
farmhouse table diy with removable legs
 

11. Prepare and attach middle support braces

Measure the exact distance in between the side aprons and cut three 2x4 middle support braces to size. Add two pocket holes to each end of the braces and attach to the side aprons on the bottom of the table top with wood glue and kreg screws. I forgot to take a photo of attaching the support braces...

 
 farmhouse table diy with removable legs
 

12. Finish making table legs

Use a small pencil and mark where the corner bracket holes lines up on the table leg chamfer. It also helps to label the table leg and end apron it matches perfectly with A, B, C, D if you want.

Use a drill press and drill 90 degree holes into the chamfer where you made your hole markings. It's really important the hole is drilled at 90 degrees or else the leg may go on crooked. Next, the attach hanger bolts into the holes with a hanger bolt driver.

Finally, attach your removable legs to your farmhouse table with 5/16 flat washers and hex nuts!

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 

Flip your farmhouse table over and it's all ready for sanding, staining, and finishing! Here is the final result:

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 
 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 

And here is a photo of our very first farmhouse table that's still in our kitchen today and was our test build to figure out the best way to build a farmhouse table with removable legs:

 
Farmhouse table DIY with removable legs
 

I hope these build plans explaining how to build a farmhouse table with removable legs has been helpful! For a tutorial on how I stained and finished all of the farmhouse tables we've built, you can check out my post How to Stain Wood. We used Minwax Dark Walnut for this table.

Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

Disclosure: Please note this post contains some affiliate links. If you purchase through those links I may earn a small commission (at no cost to you). I have personally used these items and recommend them based on my experience.

Office Chalkboard Makeover with Milk Paint

 
Office Chalkboard with Milk Paint
 

For the longest time I have been wanting to try milk paint. I typically use latex paint or chalk paint, but I've seen many awesome projects where milk paint was used and I really wanted to try it out to achieve a chippy finish! I had a chalkboard in my office that had a stained frame which I knew would look really cool if it had a distressed, white, paint finish to contrast with the black chalkboard. Here is the before photo of the chalkboard:

 
Office Chalkboard with Milk Paint
 

I decided to add some trim to the chalkboard to give it more definition and edges for distressing. I used Miss Mustard Seeds Milk Paint in Farmhouse White (loveeee this color). After using the milk paint, I didn't quite get the chippy finish I anticipated at first. I sanded and distressed the chalkboard edges to get more of a rustic look, which resulted in this finish:

 
Office Chalkboard with Milk Paint
 

 It didn't chip quite like I imagined due to a preparation mistake I made. If you want a chippy finish, do not sand off all of the top coat or finish on your piece, only a little light sanding is necessary. A top coat will definitely help provide the resistance needed for chipping to occur. The original chalkboard frame I used had two coats of polyurethane and I sanded most of it off, which caused the milk paint to absorb in the wood instead of resisting it. However, if you do want the milk paint to be absorbed and not flake, raw wood or raw wood with stain is a great surface to start with! Either way you can sand your piece after painting, like I did with my chalkboard makeover, if you want to achieve a distressed finish.

 
Office Chalkboard with Milk Paint

Office Chalkboard with Milk Paint

 

After using milk paint for the first time in my chalkboard makeover, I am excited to use it again, especially on a vintage piece of furniture! Have you used milk paint before? What are your thoughts on it? Feel free to share in the comments below or on Instagram or Facebook.

You can check out the chalkboard in my full office makeover reveal here! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

 
Office Chalkboard with Milk Paint
 

Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal

 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 

Wow! I am really excited to finally be writing this post! It seems like my office makeover has been in the works forever! When I started spending a lot more time in my home office about two years ago, I realized the space was cluttered and uninspiring, it was pretty much just a mismatch of stuff. I wish I had a before photo of my office, but it was so long ago that I never did take one and I slowly began implementing all of my ideas. Of course there are still some small things I'd like to add or change, but I am so excited to share the reveal with you all now that the major projects are complete!!!

Almost all of the furniture and wall decor was either a DIY build or a refinishing project! It saved me a tonnnn of money and I was also able to customize a lot of the decor, furniture, and storage to exactly how I wanted it. The overall decorating style I was going for was rustic chic because I love a cozy, rustic home, yet it's my home office, so I needed some feminine touches mixed with lots of functionality and organization.

I've included a full source list at the bottom of the post!

 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 

The large craft desk was my very first office project that I built with Brandon and it has been super functional for all my DIY needs. The floating shelf was a more recent build, the building steps can be found here

 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 

The Office Storage Bookcase is one of my favorite pieces I've ever built. I designed it to maximize storage space in a smaller room by making it nearly 8 feet tall and it has 9 cubby shelves, a huge drawer, and base cabinets for more hidden storage. It holds most of my crafting supplies and papers! I think it really is the focal point of my home office!

 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 

The Wood Framed Calligraphy Sign was another DIY project, you can find the tutorial here, and you can also download a free printable of the calligraphy design on the sign! For my computer and writing desk I took a break from building, but I did refinish it to match the rest of the office!

 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 
 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 
 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 

My IKEA Hack Magazine Files have been really functional as well for providing pretty storage! Originally, the white ones were pink, but I painted them white to be more neutral. The Oh So Beautiful print can be found in the Angela Marie Made Shop.

 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 

Finally, this chalkboard was a DIY project too and also a special paint job...but that's another story I will be sharing soon! I do use it for my daily to do lists all the time, so it's really useful and cute!

 
Rustic Chic Home Office Reveal
 

 

What do you think of my rustic chic home office reveal? Feel free to share in the comments or on Instagram or Facebook! This was my very first full room reveal on my blog and I am looking forward to the next room...which will most likely be the living room! Follow along on Instagram and Facebook for updates and behind the scenes photos! Thanks for checking out my home office reveal!

Home Office Source List:

  • Office Storage Bookcase - DIY build you can find here
  • Desk - Wayfair and refinished here
  • Craft Desk - DIY build
  • Bentwood chair - thrift store find
  • Magazine files - IKEA hack, tutorial here
  • Desk lamp - IKEA
  • Wall File Organizer - Pottery Barn
  • Wood Framed Calligraphy Sign - DIY build, tutorial here
  • But first coffee printable - Angela Marie Made Shop
  • Wood Floating Shelf - DIY project, info here
  • Grey Shelf Cubby Bins - Target
  • Baskets on floating shelf - World Market and Home Goods
  • Oh So Beautiful printable - Angela Marie Made Shop

Note, this post contains an affiliate link.

How to Stain Wood

 
How to stain wood
 

When I first started learning how to build furniture, I really didn't know how to properly finish a piece and how to stain the wood. I remember my very first build, a 4ft. chalkboard, I was so excited about it that I didn't even sand the wood before I stained it! Fortunately, with stain, it hides a lot of imperfections!

As I continued with my DIY furniture building, I learned a lot through trial and error as well as some research on the best way to stain wood. Today I am sharing my process on how I stain wood and what I have found works best. I hope it helps if you are wanting to easily learn how to stain wood!

1. Sand the wood

The key to a beautiful finish is all in preparation of the wood, mainly the sanding! Now I will admit, I really don't like sanding! Getting covered in saw dust is no fun, but it is one of the most important preparation steps to creating a beautiful finish, so I deal with it!

Always wear goggles because sawdust in the eyes is annoying as I have experienced first hand. You can also wear a face mask/sanding respirator too if you desire. For most projects, I recommend an orbital palm sander. For really light projects, a sanding block will work and when extreme amounts of sanding are needed, a belt sander will be most helpful to start with on the project.

 
How to Stain Wood
 

It's best to start with 80 grit sand paper to sand your whole project and this usually takes the longest amount of time as it really gets all the rough stuff off of the wood. As you move up in the grit number of sand paper, the smoother the finish will be on your project piece, and the less material is removed. I usually start with 80 grit, then use 120 or 150 grit, and finish sanding with 220 grit for a very smooth finish on the wood. I really like these hook and loop sanding discs for my orbital sander, they stick right on the sander and remove very easily. Just make sure to line up the holes correctly to avoid extra scratches!

In the photo below, you can see the difference sanding makes in the finish of the wood!

 
How to Stain Wood
 

2. Prepare the Wood

The final preparation step is to remove the saw dust from your wood. There are many ways to do this like using a shop vac, a damp cloth, etc. My favorite way is to use a soft bristled brush or broom and sweep off the saw dust, then to remove the rest of it I always wipe down my wood with tack cloth. It's sticky so I like to wear latex or rubber gloves when cutting/handling it, but it works wonderfully for removing the saw dust and you don't need to use a lot of it, so it lasts awhile!

After all the saw dust is removed, the next key step is using a pre-stain wood conditioner (when you are going to be using an oil based stain). This can easily be applied to the wood with a lint free rag. Follow the directions on the can, but basically you apply this to your clean wood surface and let it sit 5 - 10 minutes before applying your stain.

How to Stain Wood
How to Stain Wood

This wood conditioner makes a HUGE difference in the final look of my furniture finishes! It prevents blotching and streaking on the wood surface. Here is a photo showing the difference after just one coat of stain has been applied. The wood piece with no wood conditioner is much more blotchy.

 
How to Stain Wood
 

3. Apply your stain!

Time for the stain! It's important to note that all wood takes stain differently, therefore it's best to test some different stains on a scrap piece of wood (that is the same kind of wood as your project) in order to make the best decision about what stain color you want to use!

 
how to stain wood
 

Wood Stains used in photo: Minwax English Chestnut, Provincial, Dark Walnut, Special Walnut, Mix of Weathered Oak & Provincial

When using oil-based stain, the most common type, always apply it outside or in a well ventilated area because it is smelly and make sure to put some plastic or cardboard down to protect your work surface! Wear gloves (chemical resistant ones work best) and make sure to stir the stain in the can before using (don't shake it). I prefer applying my stain with a lint free rag or cloth because I find that it's easiest to control how much is applied and it can be thrown away after use. You can also use a foam brush, but it goes on heavier, however they do work well for getting in tiny crevices. Another option is to use a natural bristle brush, but the brush can't just be cleaned with soap and water, it has to be cleaned with mineral spirits, which then have to be properly disposed, and this adds lots of extra time and effort. That's why I stick with the rag/cloth!

 
How to Stain Wood
 

Apply one coat of stain with the grain of the wood and use the rag to wipe any excess stain off. If you want a richer or deeper color, apply a second coat after the first coat has dried (usually around 4 hours).

 
How to stain wood
 

4. All Finished Staining! Decide on a top coat.

Yay! That's it for staining! You can either leave your project as is or add a top coat or sealant for the best durability finish and enhancing of the wood finish. There are many types of top coats/sealants you can use including polyurethane (water or oil based), furniture wax, oils, lacquers, shellac, etc. There are pros and cons of each, but what I've used most often is a fast drying oil-based polyurethane in a satin finish because it provides strong durability and really brings out the beauty and grain of the wood. For application, I use a foam brush (for easy disposal) and apply it very lightly in long strokes to avoid foam brush strokes. I know it looks like I used a lot in this photo below but it's just the glare! These foam brushes work great and hold up well with the poly in my experience.

After your first poly coat is applied and has dried, the wood grain may rise some, simply use a 220 grit sand block and lightly hand sand over the piece. Then, use tack cloth to wipe away the saw dust. Apply a second coat with a new foam brush and let dry. You can apply a 3rd coat if necessary.

 
How to Stain Wood
 

Once your top coat has been applied, let your newly finished piece sit for at least a day with no use (preferably 3 days) which allows the top coat to cure to a hard, durable finish. Then, you can enjoy! I hope this how to stain guide has been helpful! For building projects, where you can implement these staining steps, check out my building projects!

Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

Note, this post contains affiliate links.

Floating Shelf DIY for the Office

 
floating shelf diy for office
 

When brainstorming ideas for my office wall decor, a floating wood shelf came to mind for my frames and other decor. It would also work well for adding some rustic charm which I love. I definitely had to have one!

Originally, I was thinking of buying one, because a shelf shouldn't be that expensive right? But, of course they were more $ than I wanted to spend and the less expensive ones all looked like fake wood. After lots of research on the best way to build a floating shelf, I decided to go with these build plans from Shanty-2-Chic, but modify them some so they'd be more apartment wall friendly and also not as thick/big.

Here are the wood sizes and cuts I started with in order to make a floating shelf that measures 49.5" long x 2.5" high x 7.25" wide:

  • One 2x2 @ 48" long and three 2x2 @ 5.75"
  • One 1x8 @ 48" long
  • One 1/4" thick plywood sheet @ 48" long x 7.25" wide
  • One 1x3 @ 49.5" long and two 1x3 @ 7.25"
 
Floating shelf DIY for the office
Floating shelf DIY for the office
 

First, using my kreg jig, I drilled two pocket holes into my three 2x2 @5.75" pieces. Then, I attached them to my 2x2 @48" to create the floating shelf support brace.

 

The shelf support brace was added to wall with 3" long screws (we drilled pilot holes first through the wood).

 
Floating shelf DIY for the office
 
 

Before assembling all of the remaining wood, I stained the parts of the wood that would show on the shelf. I didn't want to risk getting any stain on the walls since we are renting! I used Minwax Weathered Oak and then Provincial for the stain finish and sealed it with a satin poly finish.

I attached the bottom plywood piece first with screws. I used screws instead of nailing it because I want to easily be able to remove the shelf when we move.

 
 

After adding the bottom, I attached the top pieces and then the side and front pieces with 1.25" brad nails and my brad nailer.

 
Floating shelf DIY for the office
 
 
Floating shelf DIY for the office
 

Overall, it was a pretty simple build and I love the end result!

 
floating shelf diy for office
 
 
floating shelf diy for office
 
 
But first Coffee chalkboard Printable available in the shop here!

But first Coffee chalkboard Printable available in the shop here!

 

What do you think of my floating shelf DIY for the office?! If you want to see more office wall decor DIY ideas, you can check out my DIY wood sign (with a free printable too).

My full office makeover reveal is coming soon, stay tuned!!! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

 

Note, this post contains some affiliate links.

DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy Quote

 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 

I've been working on my office makeover for what seems like forever! Finally, I'm nearing the end of the process trying to determine my wall art. I knew I wanted a simple, rustic, wood sign for above my desk with an inspiring quote that incorporated my calligraphy. Picking the right quote was incredibly difficult for me, especially because I can be so indecisive and I changed my mind at least three times haha!

I decided on the quote "Create the things you wish existed," although I'm not sure of the source of it. I liked this quote because it can relate to all things creative/art/DIY or it can be applied to really any goals in life you wish to achieve! 

 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 

This is one of my most simple building projects yet and it can be done with just a hammer and finishing nails! Or if you really like the calligraphy quote design and don't want to DIY the wood sign, I've included a free printable art print of the design below:

Total cost for this project was about $15 for the lumber as I already had the paint and stain supplies on hand.

Here are the supplies and steps on how to build and how to paint this DIY wood sign with the calligraphy quote:

Tools:

 

 

Materials:

  • 1/2" or 3/4" thick plywood panel at 2ft x 2ft
  • (2) 1x2 @ 8ft.
  • 1 1/4" brad nails or finish nails
  • Paint for the the sign background (latex, chalk paint, any kind you want!)
  • Paint for the lettering (any kind, I used acrylic craft paint)
  • Paint roller and small paint brush (for lettering)
  • Wood Stain

1. Cut your 1x2s to the following sizes: Two pieces @ 24" and Two pieces at 25 1/2"  OR if you have a custom size sign do two at the exact length of the top and bottom sides and two at 1 1/2" plus the length of the left and right sides.

 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 

2. Stain all sides (except the back), of your 1x2 frame pieces. Then, use a paint roller and paint the front side of your 2ft x 2ft plywood piece.

 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 

3. Now it's time to attach the framing to the sign! There are two simple ways you can do this. You can flip the sign over and lay your frame pieces against it, so everything is flat on your surface (shown in the first photo below). Or you can put some scrap 1x thick wood under your sign, leave it face up, and line up your frame pieces (middle photo below). I chose to do the second method so I could see exactly how my frame pieces were going to look when attached. Line up one of your shorter frame pieces on the bottom of the sign (use clamps if desired, it does make it easier).

4. Use a brad nailer or hammer and attach frame to sign with brad nails or finish nails. Repeat for the top frame piece on the top of the sign. You can use extra nails on the top and bottom pieces since they won't really show when hung on the wall.

 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 

5. After your top and bottom frame pieces are attached, repeat steps 3 and 4 for the left and right side frame pieces to complete your sign build!

6. Time for the lettering! There are many ways to transfer a print design on paper to a wood sign. And if you have a favorite way I'd love to hear in the comments! I'm going to share two methods here.

The first method is what I used, where I printed the calligraphy quote out with my vinyl machine as a vinyl decal and used it as a stencil (shown in below three photos). Then, I painted two coats of black acrylic paint with a small, art, paint brush, making sure I didn't put the paint on too heavy to prevent it from seeping under the vinyl. So, if you have a Cricut, Silhouette Cameo, or other vinyl machine and know how to make decals, this is a good method. A free printable for tracing the design is available below!

If you don't have a vinyl cutting machine, the second method works just as good! Have the design enlarged at your local copy store, I think Staples engineering 24" x 36" prints for $3.59 work especially great for this project. And I've included a free, 24" x 36" download of the design (in addition to the 8x10 printable) below which you can use! Then, once you have the enlarged print, use the pencil tracing method, where you flip the print over, rub pencil on the back of the letters, then flip the print back over and tape it down on your sign. Then, you trace over the outline of the letters on the front, pushing down hard. Remove the print and you have an outline of the lettering. Proceed with painting in your letters. Here is a good tutorial I found searching on Google that explains this method well with pictures!

Also, although I used a small paint brush for filling in the letters, a paint pen/marker may work really well too!

Once you've painted on your letters, your DIY wood sign with calligraphy quote is complete!

 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 
 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 
 
DIY Wood Sign with Calligraphy quote
 

I will be sharing some more office projects in the upcoming weeks as well as my full office makeover reveal!!! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

Update: You can see the full office makeover reveal with this sign here!

 

Note, this post contains some affiliate links.

Quick Guide: How to Print Printables

 
how to print printables quick guide
 

When I tell people I create printables I often get a confused look as to what is a printable?! I also have a lot of new customers in my Etsy shop who are purchasing printables for the very first time! So, I thought putting together a quick guide explaining what printables are and how to print printables would be helpful!

What is a printable?

A printable is a graphic design or text that is in the form of a digital download. Examples include art prints, worksheets, calendars, stickers, quotes, and more. Two of my favorite things about printables are that they are inexpensive (and sometimes free) and you can print them out yourself! I love using printables to update my home decor with fun, new designs and seasonal designs, as well as using them for party decor!

 
how to print printables quick guide
 

How to print printables?

All Angela Marie Made printables are a high resolution, 300 dpi (dots per inch). It's important to note that the actual print quality can vary depending on where and how you actually print the printable. Actual print colors may vary due to monitor settings and the printer/printing service used. Also, print quality may vary due to the quality of paper, ink, and printer/printer settings used. With all that being said, here are my printable printing tips to help achieve a high quality print!

1. Print at Home

This is the easiest, cheapest, and fastest method!

You can use an inkjet or laser color printer (although I prefer inkjet). It is best to print on a high quality paper such as a premium matte cardstock for best results. I bought a 250 pack of this cardstock paper for $10 and it has lasted me a really long time and works great for printables and other kinds of projects. You can always just print on regular printer paper too if you are in a hurry!

Since most readily available cardstock and printer paper is 8.5" x 11", you will need to trim the paper if your printable is 8" x 10" (all of our art print printables are this size so they fit in a picture frame). I find it's easiest to trim the paper to 8" x 10" before printing. This paper trimmer is my favorite, inexpensive tool for quality paper trimming. It's available on Amazon and also at many local craft stores like Michaels and Jo Anne Fabrics. Scissors and a ruler is always an option too for trimming.

Finally, before printing, make sure your printer settings are set up for high quality printing, high quality paper (if using it), and for the right 8" x 10" size under printer properties. The exact settings will vary on printers, but I use: Borderless Photo Printing, Borderless 8x10in., Premium Matte Paper, BEST print quality, and landscape or portrait orientation. Also, you can test out any other settings, such as color printer settings. For example, on black and white only designs, I chose high quality grayscale (instead of print in color).

That's it! Print, place in a picture frame if you want, and enjoy!

Here is a photo of our "but first...coffee" printable that I printed at home from my inkjet printer on cardstock paper:

 
how to print printables
 

2. Online Printing Services

There are many online printing services, many of which can offer a quick and high quality print of your printable that is shipped directly to you. My favorite online printer that I have tried is Persnickety Prints. They offer high quality, affordable prints, fast shipping, and several paper choices. The great part about Persnickety is that you can select the 8x10 press print size, so no cutting or trimming is necessary! They are also great for printing our chalkboard printables since they are high quality and you don't have to use a lot of your own black ink!

3. Local Print Shop or Office Supply Store

You can use a local print shop or office supply store and take the file on a USB flash drive and go speak directly with someone about what you need printed, how you'd like it printed, and what type of paper you'd like to be used. Of all the office stores, I prefer Fedex Office (Kinkos). I'd avoid using supercenters and photo kiosks as they are intended for actual photo printing on photo paper not art prints on cardstock or specialty paper, so their quality is going to be lower for design/art printables.

And that's my quick guide to how to print printables! Besides the printables I offer in the shop, I am going to be offering some free printables soon on an on going basis! Freebies are always exciting! For new designs, updates, and more be sure to follow along on Instagram, Pinterest, and Facebook!

 

Note, this post contains some affiliate links for products that I recommend from personal experiences.

Entryway Hall Tree Bench DIY

 
Entryway Tree Hall Bench DIY
 

Since we moved into our apartment, I really wanted to build a cute hall tree bench for a little corner by our front door where we desperately needed some organization and a place to put keys, dog leashes, shoes, jackets and more. I want to keep it real with you guys, so here is an embarrassing photo of what the area looked like before and as you can see we really needed something more functional (and pretty):

 
 

Talk about a hot mess, right?! Finally, I decided to build a custom entryway hall tree bench! With Brandon's help we were able to get it built and painted within two afternoons, it was definitely a more simple/easy project build!

We live in a small apartment right now and this hall tree bench is perfect for providing organization for small spaces! And I'm obsessed with it now! Every time I walk by it, it's just so cute to look at it and it provides so much needed function to our entryway! And Brandon loves it too! Win-Win!

Total build cost for this Entryway Hall Tree Bench DIY was about $92! Other hall trees this size retail around $250-$500, definitely a huge cost savings by building one. The final size of the Entryway Hall Tree Bench is 31" wide x 76" tall.

The full tutorial on how to build this Entryway Hall Tree Bench can be found on my post on buildsomething.com, where you can find more great DIY building project plans too!!

As a reference here are the materials and tools you will need:

Materials:

  • (2) 2x8 @ 8ft
  • (1) 1 x8 @ 6ft
  • (1) 1x4 @ 8ft
  • (1) 1x4 @ 10ft
  • (1) 1x16 @ 48" Laminated Panel Board
  • (1) 1/4" thick, 4ft x 8ft Plywood board
  • 2 Wood Corbels
  • 3 Coat Hooks
  • 2", 1 1/2", & 3/4" Wood Screws
  • 2 1/2" and 1 1/4″ Kreg screws
  • 3/4" and 1" Brad Nails
  • Wood Glue

Tools:

Again you can find the full tutorial and free build plans over at buildsomething.com!

What do you think of my Entryway Hall Tree Bench DIY?! I think it would also work great in mudrooms, hallways, laundry rooms and more! Would you be able to use an organizer like this in your entryway? Feel free to share in the comments or on Instagram or Facebook! You can also follow along with my latest projects on Pinterest!

Lastly, you can find this new "so good to be home" printable in the shop!

 
Entryway Tree Hall Bench DIY
 
 
Entryway Tree Hall Bench DIY
 
 
Entryway Tree Hall Bench
 

Note, this post contains affiliate links.

4th of July Mini Pie Favors

 
4th of july mini pie favors
 

I really wanted to make some vintage, patriotic 4th of July decor this year, but its been a crazy, busy month! Instead, I am sharing these quick and easy 4th of July mini pie favors! So, if you are feeling crunched for time, but still want to make something festive too, these mini pie favors are perfect! You can bring them as a favor to a 4th of July celebration or just eat them all yourself (and maybe share some too)!

 
4th of july mini pie favors
 

Supplies needed:

  • Mini pie baking pan (I found mine at Williams-Sonoma a few years ago and love it)
  • Star cookie cutter
  • Refrigerated pie crust dough
  • Your favorite pie filling recipe (I used a cherry filling recipe from Food Network)
  • Kraft cupcake boxes
  • Festive ribbon and gift tags
  1. First, roll out your pie dough and add to your mini pie baking pan. Then, add the pie filling.
 
4th of July Mini Pie Favors
 

2. Use your star cookie cutter and cut out star shapes in the pie dough and add on top of the mini pies. Sprinkle with some sugar and dollop some butter on top of the mini pies.

 
4th of July Mini Pie Favors
 

3. Bake according to the pie recipe (you may have to adjust the timing due to the smaller size of the pies if you are using a regular pie size recipe). After baking, allow the mini pies to cool.

 
4th of July Mini Pie Favors
 

4. Add the mini pies to your cupcake boxes and decorate them with red/white/blue ribbon and gift tags! Super simple, yet cute and festive!

 
4th of July Mini Pie Favors
 

What do you think of these 4th of July mini pie favors? Do you have any favorite 4th of July projects?! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

 
4th of July Mini Pie Favors
 

4 Ways to figure out your Home Decor Style

 
 Ways to figure out your Home Decor Style
 

Narrowing down your home decor style can be tough! I feel like I am constantly evolving my home decor style to figure out what I absolutely love. And since starting this blog, I have really been trying to narrow down my exact decor niche in order to be consistent with what type of style content that I post. But, it is has been really challenging because I am still at the early stages of this process and I have found I like a lot of different styles! Haha! Do you ever feel that way? That you are just drawn to so many styles that you like?!

In order to really start narrowing down my focus, I've been using 4 key ways to help myself figure out my home decorating style and I thought it would be useful to share them since others probably feel this way at times or all the time!

Here are 4 ways to help figure out your home decor style:

1. Create a mood board or Pinterest board

Start saving images of decor styles that you just love and feel like they could be part of your dream home. Don't bother saving images that you like, but only ones that really speak to you. Once you have several of these images gathered, see if you can find some kind of cohesive theme to all of them. When I did this I noticed I was really drawn to whites, greys, neutral textures, and some rustic touches with pops of color. In addition, I noticed I really love wood mixed with white. This was interesting to me because I love the color pink, but I've realized I don't want to decorate everywhere with it, but just try to incorporate it in natural ways, like fresh pink flowers!

I found the photo below on Pinterest and it is one of my favorite photos on my mood board. I love the natural wood, refreshing whites, marble counter top, and the stunning chandelier! The comfy couch and fireplace in the background are lovely too since they incorporate the coziness elements that I love! The only thing I'd change in this photo is maybe some of the fireplace decor and I'd have a fire actually going in the fireplace haha :)

2. Make a list of words that describe how you want your home to feel.

What is the overall vibe you want someone to feel instantly when walking into your home? And if they were to describe it what would they say it felt like and looked like? The words I chose for my home are:

  • Light and airy
  • Cozy
  • Happy
  • Simplicity
  • Classic
  • Natural
  • Rustic Chic
  • Bits of farmhouse styles

Now when you go to make a decor decision you can look at your list and see if your decor idea or product you want to buy fits this vision!

3. Practice decorating with some styles you have been drawn to and that your mood board conveys. Then, take photos of the decor and assess what you like and don't like.

I am still in the process of practicing A LOT! And it's hard. But, it should get easier in time with more practicing and editing. When I take photos of my decor styling, it really helps me to step back and visually assess what I like and don't like about what I created. I think this is a good way to learn and help develop your decor style. It's also fun when you do this over time because you can see how much your style has changed and improved!

4. Figure out what styles you don't like.

This one probably seems like a no brainer, but knowing what to stay clear of really helps. For example, I know that I don't like anything mid-century or really modern. Some people have created really cool spaces with these styles and I like admiring how they have done that, but I personally don't prefer it for my own home. Therefore, I know to stay clear of furniture and decor that has that kind of look since it would not look right in my home.

I hope these 4 ways of figuring out your home decor style have been helpful in some way! Now the next biggest challenge after figuring out your home decor style is how to create this style without spending a bunch of money, unless of course you can go ahead and do that! I'll be sharing some tips I've used for decorating on a budget in the near future!

Are there any special ways you have used to help figure out your home decor style? Feel free to share in the comments or on Instagram or Facebook! I love hearing others tips on this subject!

DIY Hanging Table

 
DIY Hanging Table
 

Today I am excited to share a very fun DIY project, it was a totally last minute idea that I put together pretty fast: a DIY hanging table for the patio! Or should I call it a floating table?! Either way its been a simple, yet really functional addition to our small patio.

Brandon and I didn't have a table for our patio and it was kind of annoying whenever we'd be having drinks or reading out on the patio because we had nowhere to place our drinks, book, phones, etc. We really needed a table, but space was super limited because our patio is very small and our chairs take up a lot of room, plus Chance, our pup, likes to lay down on the patio too while we are out there. I decided a hanging table would be a fun and useful addition!

When designing our DIY hanging table, I wanted it to have a farmhouse style look to it, so I added some breadboard ends. But, if you want to keep this project really simple you can just do four pieces of wood together at longer lengths instead of adding the breadboard ends.

 
DIY Hanging Table
 

In case you are wondering, the total project cost for this DIY Hanging Table was just about $17 in material! And the final size is approx. 19" x 14".

Here are the steps on how to make this DIY Hanging Table:

1. Gather your supplies and tools:

  • 3/8" thick sisal rope
  • Two Screw Eyes
  • Two Spring Links
  • One 1x4 @ 8ft
  • Kreg Jig
  • 1 1/4″ Kreg Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Drill
  • Miter Saw (or have your home improvement store make the cuts)

Here is a photo of the screw eyes and spring links that I used. I made sure my hardware and rope all had a weight capacity of at least 100 lbs (to be on the safe side)!

 
DIY Hanging Table
 

2. Cut four 12" wood pieces from your 1x4.

3. Lay out your four 12" pieces side by side and mark (on the pieces you want to be the backside) where your pocket holes will go. I wanted this table to be really sturdy so I did several pocket holes. After marking where to add pocket holes, drill your pocket holes using a Kreg Jig.

 
DIY Hanging Table - IMG_7016.jpg
 

4. Next, attach your four wood pieces with kreg screws and wood glue. It's easiest to attach one piece at a time using clamps.

 
DIY Hanging Table
 

5. After attaching all four pieces, measure the exact length of the four attached pieces. It should be around 14" long. Then, cut your two breadboard end pieces and mark on the back of them where your pocket holes will go. Drill your pocket holes and attach your two breadboard ends to the four pieces with pocket holes and Kreg screws. After everything is attached, your table build is complete!

Tip: If you want your breadboard ends to line up perfectly to the center boards with no gaps you can use a circular saw and trim a tiny bit off the attached center boards to create a perfectly straight edge. I was going for a rustic look, so the minor gaps didn't bother me!

6. Mark 1.5" in from the side corners of the table. Then, drill a hole on all four corners for your rope. I used a 1/2" drill bit so that my rope would fit easily.

7. Sand and stain (or paint) your table. I used Minwax Provincial. I also used a polyurethane top coat to finish it off.

8. Determine how low you want your table to hang from the ceiling or wherever you are going to hang it from and then measure that distance to determine how much rope you will need. Once you know the amount of rope you will need, add an extra foot to that measurement so you have some extra rope to work with when hanging. Then, cut your two pieces of rope to the final measurement needed.

9. Insert each piece of rope into the holes from the bottom of the table. Adding a small piece of masking tape or duct tape on the rope ends makes it easier to insert the rope through the holes to avoid rope fraying. After inserting your rope through the holes, your rope should like this photo from the bottom view of the table:

 
DIY Hanging Table
 

10. On each rope piece, tie the two ends together in a knot around the spring hooks, leaving extra room at the end of the rope. Then, attach your screw eyes into the ceiling. Next, attach your spring links to the screw eyes. At this point you may need to adjust your rope knot in order to get the table hanging level and at the exact height you want it. Once you have the table hanging where you want, add another knot with the extra hanging rope and then cut any excess rope off.

 
DIY Hanging Table
 

All finished! Sit back and enjoy your new DIY Hanging Table!

 
DIY Hanging Table
 

What do you think of my DIY hanging table?! It can also be used indoors and it works really well for adding function to small spaces! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

 
DIY Hanging Table
 
 
DIY Hanging Table
 

How to Make a Magnolia Wreath

 
how to make a magnolia wreath DIY
 

Are you a Fixer Upper fan? Or maybe you just love the farmhouse style decor? Well there are some signature farmhouse styles that I love and the magnolia wreath is one of them! Since moving to Charleston, I see magnolia trees everywhere and it makes me happy every time I see one. I decided to make a magnolia wreath since there were plenty of fresh magnolia leaves around. One of the best things about this project is that it cost less than $1 to make! All I needed to buy was a wreath form, which was $0.99 and I had a coupon too which knocked it down a few more cents. Today I am sharing a tutorial on how to make this magnolia wreath DIY.

Tip: Because fresh leaves are used in this tutorial, the leaves begin to brown after several days, so if you want your magnolia wreath to last for several months, I recommend treating your magnolia leaves with glycerin, an organic emollient, to preserve them. Here is a tutorial from Martha Stewart on that process or you can search Google for other tutorials.

 
how to make a magnolia wreath DIY
 

Supply list:

  • Magnolia leaves
  • Grapevine wreath form (I got mine from Michael's craft store and bought the 5" size)
  • Hot glue gun and glue sticks (already had these supplies on hand)
  • Scissors
 
How to make a magnolia wreath DIY
 

Here are the steps on how to make a magnolia wreath:

1. If using fresh magnolia leaves, I highly recommend sticking them in a bucket of warm, soapy water and rinsing them off with fresh water. This will eliminate any bugs/dirt that may be on them! P.S. you will notice my leaves are wet in some of the photos below, make sure you dry them before trying to hot glue them, otherwise it sizzles and doesn't work so great!

2. Cut the bottom of the magnolia leaves at an angle (this will help with sticking them into the wreath form) and then separate the leaves into large, medium, and small sizes.

     
     

    3. Start with your largest leaf pile and stick them in the back of the wreath form. Turn it over and secure the leaf with hot glue to the wreath form.

     
     

    4. Continue step #3 until you have completed the first layer and make sure to leave some space between each leaf.

     
     

    5. Start your next layer above the first, base layer. Place the leaves in this second layer over the gaps between the leaves of the first layer. Continue this process until the wreath form is almost complete (except for the last inside layer). I used large leaves for about two layers and medium sized leaves for one - two more layers. Also, around the middle layers it may be easier to hot glue the leaves from the front instead of the back, you just have to decide on a leaf by leaf basis!

     
     

    6. For the final, inside layer, use your smaller leaves, and stick them into the wreath form at an angle. Keep doing this all the way around. The key to this final step is to make sure each leaf covers the stem of the prior leaf before it, as well as the stems of the leaves on the layer below it. Secure each leaf with hot glue, but make sure the hot glue is going to be hidden by the next leaf! Also, if you have any abnormally long stems sticking out in the middle, just snip it with some scissors.

     
    how to make a magnolia wreath DIY
     

    And here is the final result:

     
    how to make a magnolia wreath DIY
     
     
    how to make a magnolia wreath DIY
     

    What do you think of my DIY magnolia wreath? I hope my how to make a magnolia wreath tutorial was easy to follow and inspires you to create your own fresh leaf wreath! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

    My New Etsy Shop!

     
    Oh so beautiful printable etsy
     

    I have exciting news to share today! I have officially started a new Etsy shop!!! Naturally, it's called Angela Marie Made. Here is the link for it: angelamariemade.etsy.com

    It's definitely still in the growing stages and there are a lot more listings I want to add, but I'm happy that I've started it. I've been wanting to start an online shop that was complementary to my blog and also that incorporated my love of calligraphy and home related decor. To start I am offering art prints as printables/instant downloads. I think these are great because they are an inexpensive way to spruce up any area of your home with a fun design or seasonal decor. All you have to do is print the design out and pop it in a cute frame or pin it up on the wall or display it some other fun way!

    In the near future I plan on adding physical products such as some fun mugs, signs, and other for the home items. But, starting a new shop is a lot of work and each design takes time to create, so it's not the fastest process! My first of these physical products should be released really soon and I'm simply loving it! Be sure to follow along on Instagram for the first sneak peak of it and possibly a special giveaway too! In the meantime, if you'd like to see when new products are listed, you can add my shop as a favorite to your Etsy favorites :)

     
    what if I fall printable etsy
     

    Desk Makeover DIY

     
    Office Desk Makeover DIY
     

    In the process of revamping my office, a new desk was definitely needed. I had been using a flimsy computer desk that was at least 15 years old...it was contributing to my office disorganization problem and was an eyesore, certainly not a place to sit and be inspired ;) I'd share a photo of it, but it fell apart when we had to move it out of the office lol!

    For my new desk, I wanted something classic, feminine, and of quality...after all I needed it to match my new DIY Office Storage Cabinet. Well, I had my eye on a beautiful Pottery Barn desk with pretty turned legs, but it just wasn't in the budget! I searched and searched for a similar, but more affordable desk and just couldn't find what I wanted. I came pretty close to building the desk, but if I bought four pretty, fancy, turned desk legs, it was again taking up my whole budget and I still needed a desk top and drawer! Finally, I came across this desk on Wayfair that was super on sale. It was nearly perfect as far as design, price, pretty turned legs, and size. Yet, it did not come in white and I wasn't a fan of the knobs. I decided to order it and give it a mini makeover.

    BEFORE PHOTOS:

     
    Office Desk Makeover DIY
     

    Here's a close up of one of the desk legs, I just love how the details help give it that classy, feminine look!

     
    Office Desk Makeover DIY
     

    For the paint color, I chose Ivory White by Benjamin Moore (love this color). Before I started painting, I tested a small area on the back of the desk to make sure there was no pink bleed through which can often happen when painting white over dark stained furniture.

     
    Office Desk Makeover DIY
     

    I painted the desk with primer and then two coats of paint. For the final finish, I used Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint - Tough Coat Sealer. For more durability, I used two to three coats of it. It's great for sealing white painted surfaces as it doesn't yellow, which is awesome because so many sealers and polys I have used in the past caused yellowing over white paint.

    Here is the final result!

     
    Office Desk Makeover DIY
     

    What do you think of my mini desk makeover? Soon I will be sharing my full office reveal with all the decor completed! I am super excited about it, but I have a few more projects to tackle before I can do that! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and sneak peeks!

     

    Note, this post contains affiliate links

    DIY Office Storage Cabinet Bookcase

     
    DIY OFFICE STORAGE UNIT CABINET
     

    Wow! I can't believe this office storage build is finally complete (as well as this tutorial)! Let me start by providing some background on this piece. My office was feeling cluttered and disorganized, I really needed some better storage solutions. I wanted storage that would be functional and pretty! I started searching for a large office storage bookcase unit that would function in many ways: craft storage, pretty displays, hidden storage, filing draws for paperwork, printer storage, etc. I really could not find anything like I was envisioning. I wanted a piece with cubbies, drawers, and doors. If there was something even similar to what I needed, it was super duper expensive and still just not quite right. Solution: Build a custom office storage unit myself. Oh boy! I get these big projects in my head and I just can't stop sometimes. This was definitely my most challenging furniture build yet, I made lots of mistakes and learned a lot!!! Overall, I love how it turned out even with some imperfections!

     
    DIY OFFICE STORAGE UNIT CABINET
     

    This project cost me around $350 total in supplies, but if I were to buy anything remotely similar, all of my options were well over $1.5k!

    Below are the steps that I took to build this DIY Office Storage Cabinet Bookcase. Let me preface by saying that I am not an expert builder or woodworker, just a DIY lover! And this project was a total learning curve where I had to figure out many steps along the way since I had to create the project build plans on my own. If you are interested in building something similar (or the same), I hope this helps a little and in some steps I have shared in italics learning lessons/tips from my experiences.  I recommend reading over all the steps first before starting.

    1.  Determine the size of the office storage cabinet. I chose the total dimensions of 92.5" x 46" since it worked best with my space. The top piece was 63.5" x 46 and the bottom base piece was 29" x 46".  Keep in mind the height of mine was nearly 8ft. tall, but I have 9ft. ceilings so it's perfect for me! In my last home, the ceilings were the standard 8ft tall though and this still fit great and really utilized wall height space.

    Tip: The office storage cabinet is made up of two pieces and the top part is very heavy! It takes two really strong people to move it, another consideration when deciding size!

    2.  Determine how much wood you need based on the size of your build. I needed the following supplies:

    • 3 sheets of 4ft x 8ft x 3/4" plywood
    • 1 sheet of 4ft x 8ft x 1/4" plywood (for backing)
    • 2 sheets of 2ft x 4ft x 1/4" plywood (for draw bottom and door panels)
    • One 1x6 @6ft
    • Two 1x2 @8ft and one 1x2 @6ft
    • Two 1x3 @8ft and one 1x3 @6ft
    • One 1x4 @8ft
    • 7ft - 8ft of Crown moulding
    • Base moulding 3 1/4" tall @7ft
    • 14" Drawer slides
    • Wood glue
    • Knobs/Pulls for doors and draw
    • Door Hinges
    • Circular saw (or you can have your home improvement store make the long cuts for you)
    • Miter saw
    • Drill
    • Brad nailer
    • Kreg Jig
    • 1 1/4″ Brad nails
    • 1 1/4″ Kreg screws

    Part One: Cubby and Draw Top Piece

    3.  Make the following cuts from the 4ft x 8 ft x 3/4" plywood (be sure to check/change these measurements as they might vary some for your custom size build). ***Note: after these first cuts, most of the remaining cuts should be made as you build since they will need to fit perfectly to your piece. It's always best to measure twice and cut once!

    • Two side pieces 16" x 62"
    • Top and base pieces 16" X 46"
    • Two inner cubby vertical pieces 16" x 48"

    Tip: I had Home Depot rip (cut) down my plywood to the sizes I needed for some of the larger cuts like these.

    4.  Add pocket holes with the Kreg jig to the top and bottom of the two side boards.

     
     

    5.  Attach the two side pieces with 1 1/4" kreg screws and wood glue into the base piece and then the top piece.

     
     

    6.  Measure and mark 1.5" on the bottom piece from the edge of the side piece. This is marking where your trim edge will start after it's attached. Then, from this line measure and mark 13 3/4" on the base piece for your cubby opening. Repeat on the other side of the bottom piece.

     
     

    7.  Drill pocket holes on the top and bottom of your inner cubby vertical pieces. Then, using kreg screws and wood glue, attach these two pieces to the bottom piece where you marked the two 13 3/4" lines in from the sides. Note, your unit is upside down for these steps, it's easier to build it that way.

     
     

    8.  Measure the exact width from the inside of the two pieces to get the width of your cubby base board. Mine was about 16" x 44 3/4. Cut the board and add pocket holes on the ends. Then, attach it with kreg screws and wood glue to the side pieces and two inner cubby vertical pieces. Make sure your pocket holes are facing up (as shown in the middle photo) since this will be the inside of your drawer and won't be seen.

     
     

    9.  Time for some cubby shelf measurements! I made my bottom two rows of cubby openings 13.5" tall. As shown in the photo below, the office storage cabinet is upside down at this point, so measure 13.5" from the horizontal cubby base board and mark it on the sides of the inner cubby vertical peices and side pieces.

     
     

    10.  Measure the exact length and widths for your six cubby shelves and cut them to size. Add pocket holes to all six of them. Then, attach your first row with kreg screws, making sure that they are being attached where you made marks on the side pieces. This part can be tricky by yourself. I recommend either having someone help you by holding the shelves in place or putting some kind of scrap wood (cut to size) underneath to hold the shelf in place (as shown with the 4x4 in the below photos). Also, we used a level as we drilled the kreg screws in ensuring the shelves would be level.

    Tip: For the depth of the cubby shelves, I made them a little less than 16" deep to allow for some wiggle room when attaching them and so that my backing panel behind the cubby shelves would be perfectly flush with the sides and top/base pieces when attached.

    11.  For the second row of cubby shelves, measure 13.5" down from the first row of cubby shelves and mark on the sides. Attach with kreg screws. We then cut our 4x4 scrap wood down to size again to help finish attaching the second row of shelves.

     
     

    12.  At this point we flipped the whole piece over so that it was sitting up the correct way. Then, we added a 1x4 (with pocket holes and kreg screws) to the bottom back to add support and reduce any wobbling there might be.

     
     

    13.  Add the trim. Start by cutting 3 pieces of the 1x2s for the two side trim pieces and the bottom trim piece. Attach to the side and bottom edges with your brad nailer, 1 1/4" brad nails, and wood glue (a clamp helps with this part as shown in the first photo below). We used our Ryobi Coordless Airstrike brad nailer for this part. Next, measure and cut the 1x6 to fit along the top edge and add pocket holes. Then, attach the 1x6 to the top edge (this will be the piece your crown moulding gets attached to) with brad nails (along the top), kreg screws (on the sides), and wood glue. Make sure the top edges are flush with each other when attaching.

    Part Two: Custom Size Drawer

    14.  Install the drawer slides and cut the drawer box and drawer face to size. For the drawer, it's very important to follow the drawer slide instructions. This was my first time making a drawer, so I won't go into detail here. I recommend looking at some other drawer tutorials online if this is your first drawer install as well. I used this helpful tutorial from Shanty-2-Chic as a guide for this part. There's three differences between their tutorial and this one. First, add a 1x2 (with kreg screws and wood glue) on both sides (for your drawer slides to attach too) and make sure it is raised off the bottom so that the bottom of the 1x2 is just above the top of the 1x2 base trim piece (shown in 1st photo below). Raising up the slides with the 1x2 will allow your drawer to slide out above the trim. Second, for the front of the drawer box, I didn't use a whole sheet of plywood (to save material, I used scrap plywood pieces as shown in the middle photo below). Third, the front face of my drawer, that is attached to the drawer box, sits flush with the trim, I did not add any moulding to it.

    Tip: I highly recommend these inexpensive drawer slides from Lowes. I first attempted to install fancy, full extension, soft close drawer slides and had the worst experience. The drawer would NOT close right or work properly. I messed with it for a long time. I switched to the easy drawer slides noted above and they worked so well! Thank goodness!

    Part Three: The Crown Moulding!

    15.  The crown moulding is what makes this piece (in my opinion), it is like the frosting to this build...does that make sense? It was so important to making my style vision for this piece a reality and I splurged on more expensive crown moulding. With that said, ugh boy was it hard to figure out crown moulding cuts (since this was my first time ever working with fancy crown moulding). Basically, the key is to turn your miter saw to a 45 degree angle to the left (for the outside left corner), turn the moulding upside down, and rest it against the back edge of the miter saw when making the corner cut. The first 2 photos below shows this. Repeat these same steps for the outside right corner, except make sure your miter saw is turned 45 degrees to the right (shown in the 3rd photo below). Once I figured out how to make the cuts, I made some samples to help guide me (shown in 4th photo below). Attach your crown moulding with brad nails and wood glue. You may need shorter brad nails depending on the moulding thickness.

    Tip: If you are new to crown moulding cuts like I was, I recommend buying some less expensive moulding to practice on...I wasted $ messing up on several cuts of my expensive crown moulding.

    Tip #2: Although I figured out the crown moulding cuts, I still didn't master them! There were some small cracks/gaps after installing the moulding. I used  a light spackle to fill in the gaps and it worked great, you could barely tell the gaps were ever there after the piece was painted. If you plan on staining the piece, stainable wood filler would be the best product to use.

    Part Four: Base of DIY Office Storage Cabinet Bookcase

    16.  Cut the side pieces, middle piece, and top piece of the base to the following sizes:

    • Two sides 16" x 28 1/4"
    • Top piece 16" x 46"
    • Middle piece 16" x 24 3/4
    • Bottom piece 16" x 44 1/2"

    17.  Add pocket holes to one of the ends on both side pieces and attach into the top piece with kreg screws and wood glue. Note, you are starting the build of the base upside down at this point.

    18.  Add pocket holes to the middle piece on both ends and attach exactly in the middle of the top piece (I put my pocket holes on opposite sides as you can see in the below photos, but you can do them both on the same side, it doesn't matter).

     
     

    19.  Add 10 pocket holes to the bottom base piece as shown in the photo below.

     
     

    20.  The next step might be a bit confusing since I don't have too many pics of this step, but you are going to attach the bottom base piece to the two side pieces and middle piece. To start, flip the entire base 90 degrees so that it is sitting on its side. Then, attach the bottom base piece into both sides with kreg screws and wood glue. Then, attach the middle piece into the base with kreg screws and wood glue.

    Tip: You can keep flipping the piece and add the kreg screws in order to give you the best angle for screwing them in.

    21.  Cut the 1x4 to size to go along the front bottom of the base. Attach with brad nails and wood glue first and make sure it is sitting flush with the ground when attached. Clamps help! Then, flip the base over on its front and add kreg screws into your previously drilled pocket holes.

    22.  Cut the top trim (1x3) and side trims (1x2s) to size. Attach with brad nails and wood glue. Then, cut the base moulding to size and cut the corners with 45 degree miter cuts. Attach along the bottom of the base with brad nails and wood glue.

    23.  Door time! Measure the door opening for both doors. Make the door frame 1/8" smaller all around. This means the total door frame will be 1/4" less than the height and width of the door opening. Use the 1x3s to cut the frame pieces for the doors and add pocket holes to them. Then, assemble the frame pieces with kreg screws. After the frames are assembled, cut the door panels (from the 1/4" plywood) to size (make sure they are bigger than the frame openings) and attach to back of frames with 3/4" brad nails (or 3/4" screws like I did).

    ***Tip: This was my first building and installing doing doors and it was the hardest part of the whole build, I went through at least 4 different hinge sets to try to find a hinge type that would install the doors properly (lots of time and $ wasted and extra drill holes). I learned more about door types and hinges than I wanted too haha. One of main issues is that I made these doors so they had to be installed to a frame with inset doors (instead of overlay doors), which is one of the most challenging ways. To make installation easier, I recommend installing them as overlay doors if you want the hinges hidden (so you would need to make the doors a little bigger than your door opening).  Or if you want them to be installed inset like mine with the trim frame (and not so much hassle) you could use surface mount/exposed hinges. I however did not want the look of exposed hinges and finally found these hinges which worked! However, due to all my issues, the doors did not get installed perfectly level...lesson learned for next time, but at least they work! This door hinge guide from Rockler does a great job of explaining the different hinges and door types.

    24.  Attach the doors with your hinges. I used these hinges. Notice all my extra drill holes from my door hinge learning experience haha! Also, I added magnetic door latches to my doors to help keep them shut.

     
     

    25.  Cut your two backing pieces to size (with the 1/4" plywood). Use brad nails or screws to attach.

    Tip: Paint or stain your piece first before attaching the backing pieces, it makes the finishing process easier!

    And that's a wrap on this build! Yay!!! For finishing, fill all your brad nail holes with stainable wood filler (if you are staining) or the light spackle. Then, paint or stain. Finally, add your knobs/pulls hardware for the doors and drawer. You can also add some L brackets on the back to hold the top and base piece together and then a no tip hardware too if you'd like.

    I know that was a lengthy DIY post, but worth it in the end! I hope I explained the steps clear enough, this is the longest DIY step post I've ever written and again it's another learning curve for me!

    Some more fun projects and builds will be coming soon! Be sure to follow along on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and more!

     
    DIY OFFICE STORAGE UNIT CABINET
     
     
    DIY OFFICE STORAGE UNIT CABINET
     
     
    DIY OFFICE STORAGE UNIT CABINET
     

     

    Note, this post contains affiliate links.

    Oh hey Charleston!

     
    Pretty Charleston houses and streets
     

    Well the title of this post pretty much sums it up! I'm excited to share that Brandon, Chance, and I have moved to Charleston, SC! And we have been absolutely loving it!

    This year has been a roller coaster. We've had some really sad, major life changes this year so far, but we have also had some happy life changes too. Moving to Charleston has been one of the happy changes! Brandon and I met in college at Elon University in North Carolina. We missed the lifestyle of life in the South and had been talking about moving back for a long time. Charleston seemed like a great fit for us for so many reasons that I won't bore you with here. We finally took action and made the steps to actually move!

     
    pretty Charleston houses and Charleston Gardens
     

    Being in a new city has been very refreshing, especially in terms of being inspired. The natural and historical beauty that both downtown Charleston and its surrounding areas has is indescribable and I am on a constant high (of inspiration) every time we go exploring (which is at least once a week). I love looking at all the beautiful houses, parks, neighborhoods, beaches, and more. Our new surroundings may influence my style a bit.

    Now that life has become a little more settled, I plan on sharing more consistently here on the blog and social media. I have some exciting projects in the works as well as lots of ideas I hope to accomplish in the near future. Follow along on Instagram and Facebook for updates and sneak peeks on these exciting projects as well as some weekly inspiration from beautiful Charleston ;)

     
    Charleston Gardens
     

    IKEA Hack: Magazine Files

     
    Ikea Hack Magazine files
     

    I needed six, cute, magazine files that would match my new office decor. They needed to be of decent quality and affordable! Well, I thought that would be easy to find, but nope it wasn't! Magazine files are something I would have rather bought than DIYed but I just couldn't find what I needed and at the right price! Ha! Isn't that how it always goes? If I did this project again, I would do it in a more efficient way, therefore I am going to share that more efficient method here so you don't have to repeat my same timely mistakes (but that also means I don't have complete step by step photos).

    I came across these FJÄLLA magazine files from IKEA. They were a pretty good quality (for being made out of cardboard) and I really liked the price ($5 for two)! However, the color and handle finish were not going to work. DIY to the rescue!

     
     

    1. Prime

    Prime the magazine files first. Use a good quality brush to do the "cuts" around the handles and metal pieces along the top edges, being very careful. Then, use a small roller to prime the rest of the magazine file. I used really mini roller covers from Home Depot (shown in photo below). If you are working with a thick, dark paint you may not need to prime, but I used both acrylic craft paint and regular latex paint and needed to prime for both.

     
    Ikea Hack Magazine files
     

    2. Two Coats of Paint

    Pick your paint colors. Use the brush again to do the paint cuts (should only need to do this once). Next, using a small roller, paint two coats (or three coats if needed) on the magazine files allowing the paint to dry between each coat.

    3. Prep the magazine files for spray paint

    If you like the original finish on the handles, then you are all done! If not, prep the magazine files (and top metal edges if doing a different finish than the silver/metal) for spray paint. I used painter's tape, plastic grocery bags, and post it notes to protect the magazine files from the spray paint. I cut a hole out of the plastic bag for the handles to be exposed and then the bag covered the rest of the files. I stuck a post it note in the label opening part of the files, but this isn't necessary since there will be a label there anyways.

     
    Ikea Hack Magazine files
     

    4. Spray paint the handles and corner hardware pieces.

    I wanted a polished nickel finish and after researching the different options, this Champion Sterling Silver Spray Paint (Brilliant Finish) looked like the prettiest and most realistic looking option.

     
     

    5. Remove the painter's tape and the plastic bag. Then, add labels and corner hardware pieces. All finished!

     
    Ikea Hack Magazine files
     

    I also had this 3 draw paper holder that needed a makeover to go with the new magazine files color palette.

                                              BEFORE:                                                 AFTER:

     
    BEFORE
     

    After completing this project, I realized that I loved the look of the final results despite the extra DIY efforts :) For more projects like this and fun updates, join me on Instagram and Pinterest!

     
    Ikea Hack Magazine files
     
     
    Ikea Hack Magazine files
     
     
     

     

     

    Note, this post contains an affiliate link

    Tidying & Creativity

     
     

    Happy New Year! Wow I can't believe it is 2016! Over New Year's weekend Brandon and I spent the weekend tidying. I know it sounds a bit lame, but it was seriously an amazing way to start the New Year off...let me explain why! While Christmas shopping, I bought this book, The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up: The Japanese Art of Decluttering and Organizing by Marie Kondo, as a Christmas gift for my mom. Well, both Brandon and I ended up reading it! And we were so excited to start tidying after reading the book. I won't go into the details, but the main point of the book is too only keep things that spark joy in your life. This concept alone (and her explanation behind it) was a huge game changer.

    We got rid of sooooooo much stuff, literally carloads of stuff for Goodwill and the dump. It's incredible how much stuff two people can accumulate in just a few years. I even went through all of my clothes and things a few months ago, but after reading the book, it changed my approach on the whole process and I was able to get rid of way more stuff that just doesn't bring me joy or positive use in my life.

    The whole experience was such a freeing feeling that I am eager to maintain. I want to live a life free of clutter because I truly feel that your environment is a reflection of your mind. And I feel if I have a cluttered, unorganized space around me it totally bogs down my inspiration and creativity, causing extra, unnecessary stress. Tidying and decluttering has been a great way to help get life in order so that I can focus my energy on creating more and doing things I enjoy, like working on new blog content ;)

    *Note, this post contains an affiliate link.

    DIY Rustic Christmas Wreath Tutorial

     
    DIY Rustic Christmas wreath tutorial
     

    Christmas wreaths are a classic piece of holiday decor and I've always enjoyed putting one on my front door for the holidays! I love the fresh scent of pine whenever I open the door. In the past, I've always just bought a Christmas wreath, but this year I really wanted to make one. It was definitely not as easy as I thought it would be...I think one reason why is because I didn't use the classic Christmas tree pine branches for the base of the wreath. Instead, I used the type that is really flimsy (not sure what the official species name is), but it's what grows everywhere around here, so it was easy to find outside!

    Here is a step by step tutorial on how I made this cute little DIY rustic Christmas wreath:

    1. Gather your supplies: Wire wreath frame & green floral wire (any craft store will carry these), garden clippers, wire clippers (not pictured), and whatever you want to decorate your wreath with such as pine branches, berries, pine cones, ribbon, etc. You can really add anything to the wreath to make it festive, from ornaments to tinsel and more. To keep it rustic and natural though, I chose to just use pieces found outdoors. The best part about this project is that it cost less than $5 to make! All I had to buy was the wreath form and wire, I had the other supplies on hand, and the decor for the wreath I found outside.

     
    DIY Rustic Christmas wreath tutorial
     

    2. Start by wrapping the floral wire around the wreath frame to secure it.

     
     

    3. Add the pine branches one at a time and wrap around them with the floral wire. Then, add the next branch covering the stems of the first one. Definitely make sure the pine branches aren't too long, use the garden clippers to trim them if needed (in the photos below I ended up trimming the branches because as you can see the stems were too long). Also, you don't have to cut the floral wire, you can just keep wrapping it around each branch. However, in some spots I found I needed to use individual pieces of the floral wire to better secure the branches on the frame.

    4. Repeat the last step until the wreath frame is full enough with branches. Next, add your berries/pine cones and other decor with the floral wire. I used pieces of the floral wire for this part instead of continuously wrapping the wire around. I don't have a photo of this part since I was so into the wreath making process at this point and my work space was a mess!

    5. Once the wreath is complete, display it somewhere special!

     
    DIY Rustic Christmas wreath tutorial
     

    I think my first handmade wreath turned out cute! But, I definitely have room for improvement! I'm planning on trying again in the spring with fresh greenery and flowers! For now, I am enjoying my rustic Christmas wreath on our front door!

     
    DIY Rustic Holiday wreath tutorial
     

    This is the last post I'll be sharing until the New Year! I've really enjoyed the beginning of this blogging journey so far! Join me on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and more! I am excited to share more in 2016, get ready for some woodworking projects soon!

    Cozy Christmas Kitchen Wine Nook

     
     

    I love decorating for Christmas! And one of my favorite ways to decorate is by creating cozy little nooks of holiday cheer in our house. With friends and family coming by for the holidays, a wine nook was definitely essential in the kitchen!

     
    Cozy Christmas Kitchen Wine Nook
     

    One of the main features of this nook (besides the wine) is the chalkboard art that I created with my calligraphy. I think it really ups the cozy factor in this corner and ties everything together.

     
     

    The other pieces I added to this nook to make it more festive were lots of fresh greenery, red berries, and some pine cones that I found at a local park. I used these items to create a candle display and to line the top of the chalkboard art (which was my favorite part)! I also wrapped some empty boxes (well one box might have some light bulbs in it haha) in a Christmas tree kraft paper I found at Home Goods. I really tried to utilize items I had already or could find outdoors for free.

     
    Cozy Christmas Kitchen Wine Nook - Add fresh greenery and berries for natural, rustic holiday decor
     
     
    Create a holiday centerpiece using a cake stand and fresh greenery, berries, pine cones, and candles
     
    Cozy Christmas Kitchen Wine Nook
    Cozy Christmas Kitchen Wine Nook

    Creating this cozy Christmas kitchen wine nook was overall pretty simple and now it's a great place to hang out by and sip some wine! You could easily create any kind of nook in your kitchen with some simple holiday decor...I'm thinking a Christmas cookie nook would be pretty fabulous actually! Since I've taken these photos, I've also added some Christmas lights, which is really lovely at night! What do you think?!

    Join me on Instagram and Pinterest for my latest projects, fun updates, and more!